CQ:. In just two runway show seasons, Celine designer Phoebe Philo has become fashion's new pacesetter, cutting through the last few years of ruffled and bedazzled clutter, and ushering in a new era of clean minimalism, also seen at Stella McCartney and Chloe.

Philo's sharp navy blue coat, wool A-line shift dress with deep-set leather patch pockets, glossy leather A-line skirt and crisp white shirt fastened with a collar pin look right for right now. It's a look that points to the subtleties of good design, rather than an outdated idea of in-your-face luxury.

"I wanted to bring back the purity of design, but keep it emotional." That's how Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz described his decision to turn the page on his influential ruffled and grosgrain- embellished look and focus on sharp silhouttes and clean surfaces instead.

By Booth Moore, Los Angeles Times Fashion Critic




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